BASEMENT PUMP INSTALLATION
Basement pump installation is important. Ideally, there is no wet basement. A good basement is one that is as dry as a desert. Gone are the days where floodwaters or leaking waters fill your basement. The good news is installing a sump pump at the basement is a great relief. It will protect the foundation of your house and help curb the basement moisture big time.
- BASEMENT PUMP INSTALLATION
- BASEMENT SUMP PUMP INSTALLATION
- PEDESTAL SUMP PUMP INSTALLATION
- Pick a location
- Concrete breaking
- Discharge pipe
- Install the pump
- Testing time
- SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMP INSTALLATION
- BASEMENT EJECTOR PUMP INSTALLATION
- BASEMENT SEWERAGE PUMP INSTALLATION
- BASEMENT SINK PUMP
- BASEMENT DRAIN PUMP INSTALLATION
- BASEMENT TOILET PUMP INSTALLATION
- MACERATING TOILET UNIT
- TOILET SEWERAGE EJECTOR PUMP
- BASEMENT PUMP INSTALLATION COST
Water may accumulate at the basement for one reason or another like runoff from an invisible water channel or a high groundwater table. Technology comes in handy here. Get to establish the problem first. Then install a sump pump. It is one of the essential appliances that you need in your house. More so, if you value your basement and you want to modify it a sump pump can make your dreams true. The pump collects floodwater and drains it out of the building. Most houses have a sump pit or a drainage system in their initial design but if your house does not have, relax. Just install a sump pump to alleviate basement water problems. It can make a world of difference.
BASEMENT SUMP PUMP INSTALLATION
Does wetness in the basement floor cause you some butterflies in the stomach that it will weaken your foundation? Worry no more. I would recommend that you install a sump pump. Granted. A sump pump mostly helps to remove water that has accumulated in the basement. It can be through natural gravity water seeps in through the weeping pipe or into the sump pit. You will need to mount a sump pit in the basement if you do not have one to prevent water accumulation in the basement. There are two types of sump pumps. One is the pedestal sump is installed at the basement floor; secondly, we got the submersible sump pump.
PEDESTAL SUMP PUMP INSTALLATION
Before you start, get to know the municipal rules and regulations concerning your construction. You should not get into the hands of state authority for by passing regulations. Obtain permits where necessary.
Pick a location
There you go. Pick a spot where you will place your pedestal sump pump. The best location is the lowest spot in the basement. It is also advisable to place it near the outside wall where the PVC discharge pipe can easily run through. It should also be located near a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) electrical outlet to plug in the pump.
Trace the sump pit circumference with a marker to establish the width of the sump pit. Break up the concrete floor using a jackhammer. You can also you a sledgehammer, but the latter is the most efficient one. Adhere to safety measures when digging the hole.
As the hole is curing, make a hole for the discharge pipe. The size of the PVC pipe will depend on the sump pumps check valve. Fix the check valve to the PVC pipe and then to the sump pump. Continue with PVC piping up the wall. Drill a hole through your house using a hole saw with a drill. Run PVC piping through the hole. Use an elbow joint to join the PVC pipe from the check valve with the PVC in the discharge hole. Seal the PVC pipe inside and outside with silicone caulk.
Install the pump
Install the pedestal pump inside the basin while the motor lies up above the sump basin lid. Always ensure the float switch does not touch the sump basin. Measure the PVC pipe needed to get to the discharge pipe. Cut the correct size of the PVC pipe with a hacksaw. Use PVC cement and fix the adapter to the PVC pipe.
Fill the basin with water. Plug in a pedestal sump pump and turn on. Make sure the water flows out of the house properly with no leakages. There you go
SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMP INSTALLATION
First thing first. Find out the lowest point in the basement where water accumulates. That is the best place to put the sump pit. You can do this by digging a hole about 30 inches deep and 18 -24 inches wide through the basement and mount the sump pit underneath.
Let’s dive in, shall we? Purchase the sump pump and the sump basin at any hardware near you. It comes with the accessories like adapter, adhesive, check valve, ball valve and the T’. Remember to buy PVC pipes, primer, cement, and other necessary things. Moving on, mark the size of the sump pit on the basement floor. Use a grinder to make a circular or rectangular hole. Cut the concrete using a jackhammer. Shovel the concrete and gravel. The basin usually has a cut at the side where water will flow in through the weeping tile pipe.
Locate the existing weeping pipe. The weeping tile is a porous pipe that allows underground water to seep in. In the basement, you will find the weeping pipe underneath the soil close to the foundation wall or at the lowest point in the basement. Most probably in the basement, there is an existing weeping line. So tap from it by sliding it in through a much smaller weeping pipe onto the existing one. When you are done, dig a 2-inch trench on the basement where the weeping tile will lay all the way to the sump pit. This is the sump pit inlet through its side cut hole. Ensure that the weeping line fits right into the cut at the side of the sump basin. It should also lay straight on the trench with no humps to allow easy flow of water through it. Fill the trench and the hole around the sump pit with clay or sand first then concrete and gravel.
Here, you lower sump pump down into the hole. Make sure it is below the floor surface. You can wrap around a filter fabric on the sump basin to avoid any slit to get in the pump to cause clogging. Ensure that the basin lays on the hole stiff enough and it does not shift. So, let’s do the piping from the pump.
Place the pump at a central position in the sump pit. Assemble a 1.5 inch to 2-inch PVC pipe from the pump which will be the discharge channel. The pump has a threaded discharge port where you will fix a male adapter on it and on the other side fix a one-and-a-half-inch PVC pipe. Make sure it is tight enough. Cut 3m PVC pipe with a hack saw to make sure it runs from the pump to above the top of the lid. Make a hole on the lid if it does not have where the PVC pipe, vent pipe will pass through it. Attach all the pumps electrical cord to the discharge pipe or riser using wire ties or vinyl electric tape Plug in the electric cord to the power source
Fix the PVC pipe on the pump and cover with the lid. The lid should slide in well on the sump liner. The pipe should pass through the hole on the lid nicely.
Install a check valve on the open end of the PVC discharge pipe. Check valve allows water to flow in one way. Some check valve has to know hubs so fix it to the PVC pipe with a drill 5/6-inch nut driver to make it tight.
Ball valves are shutoff valves. They have an inbuilt ball that controls the flow of fluid downstream of the valve. The ball valve should be the same diameter as that of the PVC pipe.
Check the float position of the pump to ensure it is unobstructed. It should be several inches from the perimeter of the liner. The float valve should be move with ease so that when the water level rises in the sump, it should trigger the pump’s switch. It should rise when the water level is high and fall when the water level is low triggering the pump to switch on and off.
Put a riser or PVC pipe to direct the water out of your house on to the check valve. Then fix a ‘T’ with some adhesive.
Fix a vent pipe from the sump pit that will run all the way to the existing vent pipe. Fix the two pipes with a T joint.
Make a hole on the lid if it does not have where the PVC pipe, vent pipe will pass through. Attach all the pumps electrical cord to the discharge pipe or riser using wire ties or vinyl electric tape. Plug in the electric cord to the power source.
BASEMENT EJECTOR PUMP INSTALLATION
Sewerage ejector pump removes water from basement bathrooms, laundry, washer or any other utility tub that is below the septic line or the main sewer discharging from the house. Common sense dictates that the waste cannot easily flow, so it needs some elevation. Needless to say, the wastewater flow needs some aid. The basement ejector pump is similar to a sump pump. The only difference is that this one is connected directly to the sewer line in most cases it is mounted underneath a basement bathroom to force out waste water go upstream. there is a sewerage pit for the basement bathroom, toilet and laundry waste all go to this pit.
Get a good location for the sump pit. I should be the lowest point in the basement. This will save you. It should be near a wall to allow the easy discharge out of the building at least 3 m. Stay away at least 8m from the wall you don’t want to mess with the foundation of the house.
Dig a hole through the basement concrete. Place the pump in the hole. Mark the size of the sump pit on the floor. Cut the concrete with a grinder. Get a jackhammer to break the concrete further. Remove gravel 12 deeper and wider than the sump pit removing chunks and chunks of gravel. Once the hole is set. Pour a little gravel in the hole so that the sump liner sits flush with the basement floor. Place the sump basin inside the hole. Make sure the side hole of the basin is in line with the PVC pipe from the sewer. In case the sump liner does not have holes, you can drill holes. But make sure the diameter of the holes of smaller than the size of gravel. Sit the liner in the hole. Mix one part of cement, two parts of sand and three parts of gravel and fill the edge of the sump liner. Pack the concrete well so that it does not wobble when touched. Last but not least patch the floor smoothly with a wooden float. Let the concrete cure 2 -3 days before putting PVC pipes and installing the basin. No hurry here.
Place the pump inside the basin at the bottom. You can fix it with hard hold glue or bolts. Make sure the basin firmly fit on the ground to prevent any leaks. Place the pump 2 inches away from the inlet and away from the perimeter of the basin. The idea is to keep the float switch from being interfered with the inflow.
All the wastewater collects first in the basin then brought out through the pump into the normal sewer line. The sump basin should hold gallons and gallons of water. This will save you. The wastewater gets in through the hole cut at the side of the sump basin. The side inlet should be 4-inch PVC pipe or 3-inch pipe from the bathroom or any utility tub. It should supply water effortlessly without any spillage. Note that, when the water fills and reaches a certain height the movable float usually placed at the top of the pump. Should trigger the ejector pump switch on. Pump out wastewater out of the basin into the main sewer line.
The ejector pump has a discharge port. Connect a 2-inch male adapter that is smooth on the other end to the 3 m inch PVC pipe. Cut a section of PVC pipe about 2 inches and fix it to the male adapter. The pipe should be long enough to go out of the sump basin through the lid. Make a hole on the lid if it doesn’t have to allow the discharge line from the pump connects to the main sewer line. Make sure, when you put your lid on the PVC pipe fits on well. How can you do that? Slide rubber gaskets down to the lid on the pipe fix it tightly with.
From there connect a check valve on the PVC pipe. The check valve ensures that sewerage water does not flow back into the basin. Install a check valve to pipe leaving the ejector pump to the 3-inch diameter leading to the sewer line. It ensures that no single fluid flows back to the sump basin the shutoff permits a smooth service time because it prevents backflow.
Once you are done with check valve installation. Place a PVC pipe to connect to the shut off/ ball valve then proceed with the plumbing to get the pipe up to the section that gets wastewater to the main sewer line. To connect back to the main sewer, install a Tee joint on the pump discharge line. Tighten it well with clamps on both sides to avoid leakages.
On the lid, place the gasket all around the inner lip of the basin and seals it well with some adhesive and on the lid around the PVC pipes place some gaskets to prevent gases from emitting. Attach grommets on the electric cords from the pump and the vent pipe and slide them down on the lid. Secure the lid with bolts.
BASEMENT SEWERAGE PUMP INSTALLATION
This pump helps in pumping water out of the basement. My favorite part with sewerage pump is that it can pump clean water and solids, unlike sump pump which can only pump clean water. It has a short run time with frequent on/off cycles. It can jet out waste at high pressure and up to around 75 feet.
Before I dive in further let’s look at the sewer pit. The sewer tank sits in a hole at the basement. The hole measures 18 – 20 inches in diameter and 30 inches in depth. They allow the fixtures to fill in the tank through gravity.
To install the sewer basin, you have to excavate a hole. Cut through the basement concrete with a jackhammer to make a 24-inch diameter hole. Remove the gravel up to 30 inches deep for the tank. The sewer basin is then placed in the hole at the basement and sealed with concrete at the side to make it firmer. Nowadays the pump and basin come as a package, so you don’t have to buy separate parts. It makes work easier you just have to drop and tie. After setting the basin, leave it for some days to completely dry then mount the pump in the basin by fixing it with mirror nuts and bolts at the perimeter of the basin. There you have it.
From the drain lines, all basement wastewater will collect in the basin. Then brought out through the pump into the normal sewer line. On that note, ensure the capacity of the basin is big enough. The wastewater gets in through a hole at the side of the sewer basin. The side inlet should be 4-inch PVC pipe or 3-inch pipe. Make sure when the basin is lowered onto the hole it aligned properly especially the sewer basin inlet and the bathroom waste water inlet.
Place the pump 2 inches away from the inlet and away from the perimeter of the basin. Place the sewer pump inside the sewer basin at the bottom. Pretty awesome, right? The movable float switch from being interfered with the inflow or the perimeter wall of the sewer pit. There is an acceptable level that the water should reach so as to trigger the switch to start the pump to pump out the waste water out of the basin into the main sewer line.
Fix the check valve and the ball valve to a 36-inch PVC pipe. This is, of course, a dry fit no glue here, right? The check valve ensures that sewerage water does not flow back into the basin when the pump is idle. There is a slip-threaded union connecting the check valve and the ball valve just in case you need to pull out the pump for maintenance. You can also easily remove the pipe. Continue with the plumbing to get the pipe up to the section that gets wastewater to the main sewer line.
On the sewerage pump, there is a discharge you will need a 2-inch male adapter that is smooth on the other end and will connect to the PVC pipe that has a check valve and ball valve. No glue connections yet it all dry fittings. As a matter of fact, the sewerage pump is such a high-pressure appliance. Remember to install a silent sewage check valve to curb water rattling in PVC pipes and water hammering problem.
Inlet connection from the bathroom
You need to tap from the main PVC sewer line to hook up with the basement bathroom sewer a tee fitting. Mark 3 inches where you will cut to install the tee. You can sanitize the sewer line. To do that, simply pour a half gallon of bleach and flush several times. To prevent sludge from dripping from the sewer line cover the cut part with plastic. As easy as pie using a hack saw to cut the 3-inch part. Fix the PVC Tee fitting in between the pipes. Install a 2-inch riser pipe to carry waste up from the sewer pump to the main sewer line. Connect the sewer discharge pipe at a 45-degree elbow to avoid backflow because they have to empty to the main sewer line above. Attach metal hangers to support the PVC pipes.
A vent is vital when installing a sewerage ejector pump. It should stick down on the basin. It helps equalize the pressure when water is suctioned out of the basin at the same time it is an outlet for sewer gases. You should set it in a way it can connect to the existing vents or run up to the rooftop on its own. Seal the top of the sump basin tightly to avoid waste or smell emit from the sump basin at the level of the sewer.
On the lid, put the gasket all around the inner lip of the basin and seal it well with some adhesive and on the lid around the PVC pipes place some gaskets to prevent gases from emitting. Apply some liquid soap on the rubber grommets to slide the PVC pipe through the lid. The electric cords from the pump and the vent pipe and slide them down on the lid. Secure the lid with bolts. The sewer cover is secured to the sewer basin by mirror nuts and bolts. The star pattern bolts when tightened. You can fix it with hard hold glue or bolts. Make sure you fit the basin firmly on the ground to prevent any leaks. Great job. Phew, I bet you are proud now.
BASEMENT SINK PUMP
The basement sink definitely needs a pump to jet out the wastewater up to the main sewer line. How easy is that? One of the best ways is to use a basement sink pump. Basically, we are installing the box with the pump in it. Install this appliance is right under or adjacent to the pump is installed right under the sink in a box or a basin. The pump is secured at three perimeters of the box with mirror mount nuts and bolts.
The box has a pump in it with a float switch and a motor. The box will have an inlet pipe from the sink and pump out waste to the main sewer line through an outlet pipe. As the water reaches, a certain height the pump will kick on, pump all the drain wastewater out to 14 inches, and pump out into the house sewer line. Fix it is adjacent to the sink under or under the sink.
Each kitchen sink comes with a basket strainer. It comes with a stopper and a couple of nuts underneath. It connects the basket strainer to the bottom of the sink. Put Teflon tape on the threads. Put fiber gasket first then the on-ring gasket next. Then fix the box underneath the sink and tighten it with clamps. On threaded discharge part of the pump put some Teflon tape and then fix a male adapter on it. Cut some PVC pipes that you will attach to lead through to the sewer line. Glue together with adhesive the PVC pipes. You can hold it together for five counts. Affix a T” to the new pipe from the box into the existing line.
To prevent water from flowing from the box fix a check valve on the PVC pipe. So, one device that is installed right here is designed to protect that pump is called a check valve. When the pump is on not all the water will get out of this pipe before the pump shuts off, so we don’t want that water falling back down the pump. Fix a check valve.
Inside the check valve, there is a little flapper, which makes water flow in one direction. Now the other issue we have is at this pump is strong, and put up more than 20 gallons a minute. Now the fast I can only give you what three to five gallons per minute to the same.
Tighten it on both sides with clamps. To ensure that the water does not flow back to the box when the pump shuts down, you will install a check valve.
The pump is strong; it pumps more gallons of water than it can receive from the sink. Therefore, install a ball valve on the discharge pipe. We have to close down the size of the discharge to pump less so that the inflow from the pump matches the discharge. This helps the pump last longer.
Plug the pump power cord into the socket and turn on the sink faucet. Connect PVC pipe from the pump to the existing sewer line with PVC primer and. Plug power cord of the pump on the electrical power turn on the sink’s faucet.
BASEMENT DRAIN PUMP INSTALLATION
This is more of a sump pump installation. The basement drainage system is designed in such a way it all flows to the sump pit.
Once you start, ascertain that you have these tools
- Measuring tape
- Tools to dig a sump pit (varies reckoning on your basement floor)
- An electrical suction pump kit
- Sump pump float switch
- PVC piping (enough to route water sufficiently far away from home)
- Pipe fittings & wrench
- Male adaptor
- Concrete & trowel
- Hole saw
- Silicone sealing material
Step 1 –Location
Find the most effective location for the drainage pit. Use the below four main criteria to determine the best position for your basement sump pit:
- It has to be in a section wherever water collects
- It has to be close to an outlet (to power the pump)
- It has to be close to the wall, to assist facilitate external water
- It should not be any place close to water or sewer lines.
Step 2 – excavation the Sump Pit
Once you’ve established the most effective location for your sump pump. It is time to dig the sump pit. The liner determines the dimensions of the hole are determined. However, it ought to be around 30 inches deeper and 20 some inches wider than your sump liner.
If your basement incorporates a dirt or gravel floor, a mere shovel ought to do the trick for excavation. If you have a concrete floor, however, you will like an electrical jackhammer or a sledgehammer and a masonry chisel.
Step 3 – Place the Liner
Fill the lowest of your new pit with coarse gravel in order that the highest of your sump liner is level with the ground. Place the liner within the pit on high of the gravel, and fill the empty house with gravel likewise, up to concerning five or six inches below the ground. Next, combine concrete and fell the remaining house around the sump liner.
Step Four – Place the Pump
Wait for the concrete to dry, and so place your electrical sump pump into the hole. Properly secure the primary portion of the PVC pipe to the pump discharge using a male adaptor. Connect PVC pipe from the pump to the existing sewer line with PVC primer and cement. Then, place the liner high on with the pipe and transmission line outside.
Step 5 – Run the Discharge Piping Outside
Assemble the PVC piping in order that it takes the shortest direct route outside, through your home’s rim beam. Join the remaining drainpipe with hub coupling, assemble PVC pipe fittings to extend from discharge port to the Y fitting on the drainpipe. Run the pipe outside, and shut with a silicone polymer sealing material. From there, you will use a versatile tube if you wish to require water sufficiently distant from the house.
Step 6 – insert and test the Pump
Install a check valve to stop water from flowing backward into the sink and a ball valve to manage the water flow. Glue all the PVC sections with PVC cement and primer. Once everything is set, you will plug your pump in and check it. You will try this by filling a bucket with water and pushing it into the sump pit. If the pump is functioning properly, the float switch can activate it.
Voila, it works, congratulations! If not, replace the float switch. If it still does not work check the outlet might not be operating, or there is also a problem with the motor.
BASEMENT TOILET PUMP INSTALLATION
Basement toilet pumps make it achievable to add a basement bathroom. It is a wise move. It can be quite easy and affordable. Most toilets use gravity to drain wastewater into the sewer line. Some toilets are located in the basement where gravity is an uphill task. More so, the sewer lines are above the toilet. With the current technology, homeowners can fix a bathroom in the basement with less worry.
Three types of toilet pumps work in this scenario. You can install first electric up flushing toilet, a self-contained pump or the sewerage ejector pump. With these types of pumps, there is no need for a major overhaul in your premises.
As mentioned, before you can use a macerating toilet. With normal toilets waste from the toilet flows to the main sewer line then straight to the septic tank. Gravity makes it possible since the sewer lines are below the toilet. It flows smoothly.
MACERATING TOILET UNIT
Connect the toilet unit to the macerator/ pump, which placed behind the toilet or in the wall. The unit operates automatically. When water flushes out of the toilet, it fills the macerator. It will act as a reservoir, and at the same time, it has high-powered blades that shred human waste and the tissue paper. When mixed with flushing water it becomes fine slurry that can flow easily through a narrow pipe tied to the main pipe. There is a sensor on the macerator unit that triggers when the slurry will come out. It pushes the waste out through a ¾ Inch pipe all the way the drainage system.
Let’s start with the PVC pipes. Install plumbing elements to the toilet and connector macerator to the electric source. You connect the toilet discharge to that of the macerator with PVC pipe. Prime and cement the PVC pipe from the lavatory to the macerator. Use a breeze clamp to tighten the manufacturer’s adapter to connect the macerator to the discharge pipe. Adjust the eccentric connector to the chosen.
Cut out the existing sewer line to allow waste from the macerator to flow into the main sewer line. Fix a 1 ½” inch pieces with short PVC pipes and connect the rubber adaptors. Put the Y part and slide the adapters on both sides of the Y. Tighten down with clamps to avoid leakage.
Screw the adaptor on the cleanout. Remove the cleanout on the sewer line. Set up a ¾ inch threaded male adaptor. Put Teflon tape on the threads and fix it to the cleanout. Tighten it well with the plumber’s wrench. It is advisable to hook the macerating unit to the sewer line first. Run a discharge line on top of the macerating pump at 90 degrees elbow.
Connect a ball valve on the discharge line close to the macerating unit as much as possible. Try to minimize the 90 degrees turn with 45 degrees turn. Use pipe hangers or metal hangers to secure the line. Insert ¾ inch PVC pipe into 90 degrees elbow on the macerator. Tighten it with clamps. Adjust the length of the discharge line glue it well and put the pipe through the wall.
A vent is necessary to prevent airlock and let out sewer gases. Tap into the vent. You can install a vent and connect it to the existing vent, or you can use a ventless cap over the vent. Put a mark on the vent line. Cut out the PVC vent pipe and fix a T to join the macerator vent to that of the existing vent line. The toilet needs a water supply. Run water into the toilet.
Install a ‘T’ and cut about 2inches from the water line. Fix a short piece of PVC pipe to the ‘T’ and then add a ball valve.
To install the toilet, place the bowl on the floor in front of the macerating unit. Attach the bowl on the floor and anchor the bowl to the floor using the anchoring holes and screws set the clamp onto the toilet’s discharge outlet. Carefully place gaskets on the discharge outlet and tighten the clamp. Install lining on the toilet tank with gasket and tank bolts. Install the seat. Turn on the water to test your pump. The plumbing works complete, and the toilet is ready for use.
TOILET SEWERAGE EJECTOR PUMP
Worry less if you have a toilet in the basement. Apart from the fixing, a macerating unit you can fix a sewage ejector pump. This pump will be able to send the solid waste up to the main sewer line. The pump is used heavy-duty power, which will save you from tons of sewer clogs and messes.
This is the main tank where the sewer will be collected when flushed out of the toilet. To install the sewer basin, you have to excavate a hole. Cut through the basement concrete with a jackhammer to make a 24-inch diameter hole. Remove the gravel up to 30 inches deep for the tank. Remove the gravel and fix the drainage pipes.
The sewer basin is then placed in the hole at the basement and sealed with concrete at the side to make it more firm. Nowadays the pump and basin come as a package, so you don’t have to buy separate parts. It makes work easier you just have to drop and tie. After setting the basin, leave it for some days to completely dry then mount the pump in the basin by fixing it with mirror nuts and bolts at the perimeter of the basin.
Place the pump inside the basin at the bottom. You can fix it with hard hold glue or bolts. Make sure to fit the basin firmly on the ground to prevent any leaks. All the wastewater from the drain lines first collects in the basin then brought out through the pump into the normal sewer line. Therefore, it should hold gallons and gallons of water. The wastewater gets in through the side of the sump basin.
The side inlet should be 4 inch PVC pipe or 3-inch pipe. It should drain water from the toilet effortlessly without any spillage when the water fills and reaches a certain height the movable float usually placed at the top of the pump. Just starts the ejector pump to pump out wastewater out of the basin into the main sewer line.
The ejector pump has a discharge port. Connect a 2-inch male adapter that is smooth on the other end to the PVC pipe. Cut a section of PVC pipe about 2 inches and fix it to the male adapter. The pipe should be long enough to go out of the sump basin through the lid. Make a hole on the lid if it does not have to allow the discharge line from the pump connects to the main sewer line. Make sure, when you put your lid on the PVC pipe fits on well and firmly with rubber gaskets.
From there connect a check valve on the PVC pipe. The check valve ensures that sewerage water does not flow back into the basin. Install a check valve on to the pipe. Place the ejector pump to the 3-inch diameter leading to the sewer line. It ensures that no single fluid flows back to the sump basin the shutoff permits a smooth service time because it prevents backflow.
After the check valve place the PVC, pipe to connect to the shut off/ ball valve then continue with the plumbing to get the pipe up to the section that gets wastewater to the main sewer line. Connect back to the main sewer with a Tee. Fix it on the pump discharge line. Install a Tee and tighten it well with clamps on both sides to avoid leakages.
Place the pump 2 inches away from the inlet and away from the perimeter of the basin. The idea is to keep the float switch from being interfered with the inflow from the toilet.
A vent is vital when installing a sewerage ejector pump. It should stick down on the basin. It helps equalize the pressure when sanctions out of the basin at the same time it is an outlet for sewer gases. You should set it in a way it can connect to the existing vent pipe or run it up to the rooftop on its own. Seal the top of the sump basin tightly to avoid no waste or smell emit from the sump basin at the level of the sewer.
On the lid, kit places the gasket all-round the inner lip of the basin and seal it well with some adhesive and on the lid around the PVC pipes place some gaskets to prevent gases from emitting. Attach grommets on the electric cords from the pump and the vent pipe and slide them down on the lid. Secure the lid with bolts.
BASEMENT PUMP INSTALLATION COST
Please contact us for more information about the price for the basement pump and the labour costs for the installation of the pump.